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Did you know about their three main advantages..   

         Easy set, Easy adjust, Easy care.

•     Easy set.. String your lawn as usual.

•                       Use a cordless drill and 20mm bit, and a template board with 6~7 holes 110mm apart C~C in it.

•                       Drill your series of holes 110mm apart C~C .

•                       Use the dibber to make your hoop holes. (Old wooden maul for hammer and spirit level for vertical )

•                       Drop the Quadway into the holes..

•                       Pop the Quadway Sabot over the hoop .and firm with a rubber mallet

•     Easy adjust.. 1 minute per hoop !   6 minutes per lawn..

•                      One minute.  That's all you need to change from competition sub  3 11/16" all the way out to 3 3/4"

•                       Wide to narrow, and two steps in between.

•     Easy care.. Forget about :

                              sand-blasting and powder coating every 2 years... (or even painting)

•                         It doesn't take long for them to pay for themselves

•                        Stainless steel legs and crowns ..no rusting  (maybe a wash every now and then)

•                        Medium tensile square carrots (bright zinc plated) and top sealed

What you need to get going with Quadways ....

Funding  Most clubs don't have a pile of cash hanging around  SO.. funding is the usual option. Just drop me a line and I'll do a quote for you.

Freight.. Quadway hoops are heavy (surprise) but I get good rates from my NZ couriers AND very good rates to Australia.

•  The Dibber is 5 kg. !!! and is costly to send on its own.

•  A Quadway set is 17kg's

•  Basic order might be 1 Dibber and 1 set of Quadways  SO.. the Dibber travels (almost) free.

Australia

• There is no import duty on NZ made products... Thank you CER .. (Closer Economic Relationship)

• I provide the "NZ Made"  certificate 

• You might get pinged for Tax on imports greater than $AU 1,000 and that is for you to pay.

• Sometimes it can work out better to send your order in two parts.

• You can do international direct credit payment for larger orders straight from your internet banking. Fees are sometimes charged at both ends...So if you choose to do D.C. then please add $30 to cover the cost at my end.

• Credit Card Visa/M'card convenience. There is a 2.5% charge. BUT/AND that is often cheaper than other options... And in 17 years I've had no issues.

Pricing  Plus GST in NZ

                 Plus GST in NZ

Banking Quick code...I will send you this information by secure means. (say no more)

FAQ

How long will the Quadways last?

If they are set in the lawns as recommended then you will have no issues in their normal lifetime of say 20~30 years. Hoop life will be mainly affected by excessive stresses (just like your old hoops in the shed). The issues arise when hoops are set by well meaning members who are not aware of the potential risks. I will always be able to provide replacement crowns and legs however it would be unreasonable to expect a freebie when damage has been caused by excessive force.
 

Do I need a Dibber ...Yes ...

For normal club use:-

• Make the dibber holes to almost full depth
• Use a spirit level both ways to guarantee vertical both ways.
• Drop the hoop in and firm it with a rubber mallet and Sabot
• Essential ... No Dibber...No Warranty

Sabot  (say it the same as saboteur..... someone who threw the wooden shoe into the machine) Do I need one? ... maybe/probably.... maybe one for each lawn..

   The Quadways are precision made and they are strong BUT !!!  What might not be clear are the potential issues..

• Sometimes a hoop will be a bit drunk and leaning over. This is caused by the dibber holes not being vertical. (so use your spirit level)
• The usual (BAD) remedy is to give the hoop a whack on the upper corner of the crown so that the hoop straightens in the ground.
• That remedy puts massive strain on the corners of the hoop and eventually that bending moment will damage the hoop/s

    Setting lawns for competition play.

• Often the dibber is stopped 25mm short on full depth then the hoop is clamped , and driven to the full depth with a large maul. There are two issues here.
• Firstly, same as above with the bending moment at the corners that will damage the hoop sooner or later.
• Secondly, the crown of the hoop is taking all of the driving force and will eventually bend in the middle (just like your old hoops in the shed) It’s a bit like when we are driving in our cars.  .  Car and all its parts parts work perfectly as designed but they WILL change in a crash or running over a kerb.
  
  The Sabot is designed to overcome the unforeseen potential issues.
  The 40mm of steel in the top  will take the hammering strain and the side support holds the legs and crown at 90 degrees so there is NO bending moment.
  Some clubs use the Sabot to snug-set the hoops rather than using a rubber mallet. AND the current Sabot has a tough liner, inside at the top, and that is to take away the metal~metal impact. Your powder-coating will last longer.