Did you know about their three main advantages..

                Easy set, Easy adjust, Easy care.

 All Quadway hoops are precision made interchangeable, SO... They all fit perfectly into the Dibber holes.

Quadway stainless steel crowns are deeper in cross section so they have a higher resistance to bending (than cast iron or welded mild steel hoops)

Quadway legs are high grade stainless and again have a higher resistance to bending (than cast iron or welded mild steel hoops)

Important... when you are "firming" the hoops... hit the crown in the middle... Reason..hitting on the screws/legs WILL eventually damage the corners. Not covered by warranty.

 Better still.... use a Sabot  because it will add decades to your Quadways 

•     Easy set.. String your lawn as usual.

•     Use a cordless drill and 20mm  (3/4") bit, and a LawnDrillingTemplate  with 6 holes . (See in FAQ below)

•     With the Template board (with 6 holes) lined up with your strings....

•     Drill your series of 6 holes about 100mm/4" deep

•    ;Use the Dibber to make your hoop holes. (Old wooden maul for hammer and 2 team members for vertical  side~side & forward~back)

•     Put the LawnProtector over the 2 middle holes

• .

•     Drop the Quadway with the SuperClamp into the holes.                     .

•     Put the Sabot over the hoop .and firm with a rubber mallet

•  or steel club hammer(2 team members for vertical side~side & forward~back)

•     Easy adjust.. 1 minute per hoop !   6 minutes per lawn..

•      One minute per hoop  That's all you need to change from competition sub  3 11/16" all the way out to 3 3/4"

•      Wide to narrow, and two steps in between.

•     Hoop goes back into the same holes and/but has the new spacing.

•     Easy care.. Forget about  sand-blasting and powder coating every 2 years... (or even painting)

•  It doesn't take long for them to pay for themselvesStainless steel legs and crowns ..no rusting  (maybe a wash every now and then)

•  Medium tensile square carrots (bright zinc plated) and top sealed. If you get "oxide" issues with the carrots, a dunk in RustConverter will fix that.

• Blue top and Red top will "AGE" in time so we have a CrownKit to refurbish those.

   Dibber (dibble)

This makes the precision holes in the ground for the hoops.. Always the same hole spacing.. These are solid M.Tensile steel.. (not cast iron) Good for a lifetime (yours and mine).

           You need only one... Used by your lawns team

NO Dibber~~ NO Warranty

Plywood Lawn Protector... see below in FAQ

  Sabot  (say it like saboteur )

 The  Sabot slides over the top of the hoop

Hidden in the top is 55mm of solid steel. (2") That upper protects the hoop from being munted...

The steel sides front & back take all the stress off the adjustable top corners.

Some clubs use the Sabot  instead of a mallet for firming hoops into the ground. The latest version has an industrial grade padding inside the top. (Helps to save the powder-coating)

Maybe one per 4 lawns . Used by your lawns team

               SuperClamp 

Not a new idea but refined for speedy use

You might not need this for normal club play BUT they are essential for competition.

 Because balls are not identical, and competition hoop spacing is usually "Ball + Clearance", a  SuperClamp  will allow you to set hoops to the competition specs.

Tool-less adjustment,  and strong.

Maybe one per 4 lawns.  Used by your lawns team.

The "Spacer" is pre-set to 93mm and is marked with 3 dots..

 To adjust the spacer:-

1. Loosen the lock-nut (no tools needed)
2. Extend or Reduce the spacer (bolt).
3. Tighten the lock-nut

Setting hint:- Put the clamp right down to the Carrots... for maximum leverage.

SuperLifter 

 Uses the principles of a carpenters hammer for pulling out nails..leverage.

 Not much bigger than a carpenters hammer so you can have one on each trolley..

The "H" base stops your lawns being pulled out.

Your ladies will love them. Easy to use and nice and light.

 Maybe one for each trolley/lawn.  Used by your players to undress their lawn.

Lawn saving hint:- Train your players to "Stamp" on the hoop holes after the hoop comes out.. You will be amazed how long the holes remain good.

 BTW.. At the "Worlds" we got a week's play from the same hoop holes.

LawnDrillingTemplate 

With a peep hole in the middle so you can see the strings...

Drill your 6 holes with a 20mm~3/4" auger bit.. 100mm~ 4" deep

Use the 2 middle holes

Loosely fill the other 4 holes for later use (swinging the hoops)

Note.. Drill not included.

Planning PERMANENT lawns ???

Thankfully... Lawns designed for Croquet have an "underlay"  and a "turf" length that provides a more "normal" feel for play.

If you are lucky enough to be in at the planning stage.... THEN you can have our 3x QuadwaySockets installed when the lawns are laid.

3x QuadwaySockets  use normal Quadway hoops and that way you have all the Quadway benefits..

QuadwaySockets  are avail in :-

2 tubes (for one hoop position)

3 tubes (for two hoop positions)

4 tubes (for three hoop positions)

If they are set in the lawns as recommended then you will have no issues in their normal lifetime of say 30~40 years. Hoop life will be mainly affected by excessive stresses (just like your old hoops in the shed).

The issues arise when hoops are set by well meaning members who are not aware of the potential risks. I will always be able to provide replacement crowns and legs however it would be unreasonable to expect a freebie when damage has been caused by excessive force.
 

For normal club use:-

• Make the dibber holes to almost full depth

• Vertical both ways.(Lawnsetting hint:- Have 2 team members watching and calling  front~back  and left~right)
• Drop the hoop in and firm it with a rubber mallet and Sabot

 Do I need one? ... probably one for each lawn.

   The Quadways are precision made and they are strong BUT !!!  What might not be clear are the potential issues..

• Sometimes a hoop will be a bit drunk and leaning over. This is caused by the dibber holes not being vertical. (Lawnsetting hint:- Have 2 team members watching and calling  front~back  and left~right)
• The usual (BAD) remedy is to give the hoop a whack on the upper corner of the crown so that the hoop straightens in the ground.
• That remedy puts massive strain on the corners of the hoop and eventually that bending moment will damage the hoop/s
• The SABOT solves the bad stuff AND many clubs have a sabot on each trolley for firming the hoops... (instead of a mallet)

   Setting lawns for competition play.

• Often the dibber is stopped 25mm short on full depth then the hoop is clamped , and driven to the depth with a large maul. There are two issues here.
• Firstly, same as above with the bending moment at the corners that will damage the hoop sooner or later.
• Secondly, the crown of the hoop is taking all of the driving force and will eventually bend in the middle (just like your old hoops in the shed) It’s a bit like when we are driving in our cars.  .  Car and all its parts parts work perfectly as designed but they WILL change in a crash or running over a kerb.
  
  The Sabot is designed to overcome the unforeseen potential issues.
  The 50mm  (2")of  steel in the top  will take the hammering strain and the side support holds the legs and crown at 90 degrees so there is NO bending moment.
  Some clubs use the Sabot to snug-set the hoops rather than using a rubber mallet. The Sabot has a tough liner, inside at the top, and that is to take away the metal~metal impact. Your powder-coating will last longer.

12  minutes per lawn total time if you are organised...

    When you lever the Dibber out with a crowbar, you will have something to lever off.  " Give me a fulcrum..and a lever long enough.. and I can move the World".  where have I heard that before ?

Dibber spikes get massive friction in the ground.. When you lift without the Plywood Lawn Protector  you will rip out the lawn

• Make your Plywood Lawn Protector.   (or buy one from me.)
• Hop in your car and drive around the local commercial/industrial area.. Look for a builder's yard and ask for some 20mm [3/4"] plywood 300mm x 300mm  (12"x12"). Only 12mm ?  get that one and double it up (to make 24mm [1"] ). AND 2 blocks of 4x2.
• Mark a centerline both ways on the board
•     from the centerline, mark 55mm to the left and 55mm to the right. (2 1/8")  for a total of 110mm (4 1/4")
•     drill a hole at each hoop/leg position 50mm diameter (2") ... these holes will allow the dibber movement.
• 2 blocks of 90x45mm (4"x2") about 250mm long (10") for crowbar pivots
• Fit these near the edges, parallel to the hoop holes.......................................EASY

Can we swing the hoops ?

• Sure can BUT.... If you re use one of the holes... THEN.. One leg will be firm and the other will be waggling about.!
• So ... Plan to have spare hoop positions.
• String the lawns as usual.
• Then use a LawnDrillingTemplate  (See below) with 6 holes, for drilling you guide holes 12mm~15mm drill
• Drill all six holes in the turf.  Just leave the side pairs empty.
• Use the middle 2 holes for now...
•       That will leave one set to the left, 
•                    and one set to the right,
•        for later... without  having to measure.  EASY

12  minutes per lawn total time if you are organised...

Make a LawnDrillingTemplate     (or buy one from me.)

Make a center PeepHole so you can see the strings.    55mm each side of CL make a 20mm hole...  (110mm C~Center)

Then another 55mm space C~C

Then drill another 20mm hole...  (110mm C~Center)

    Repeat to the other side.

So... now you have a LawnDrillingTemplate   with a center PeepHole,

AND 3 sets of hoop positions .

One set to use now... and a set each side... for later use.... EASY